Three Fine Floats
A veteran canoeist shares his favorite day paddles on Texas waterways.
By Bill Harvey
She came to me through barter. My end involved four magnesium wheels, a Sears guitar and $65 in cash, hard-earned by pumping gas. In return I got 14 feet of scalding-hot, ear-rattling, teeth-gnashing, ill-disposed scrap aluminum lacking rivets at several structural intersections. In the great tradition of Eastern riverboat captains, I named her the Julia Belle Plemsole. My, she was a fine canoe.
When I took my true love out, I slept almost any place — on a blanket tossed upon a dry riverbed or under a clattering cottonwood tree. Now older, more brittle and less ambitious, I plan the day’s paddle to conclude at one of many Texas state parks that provide excellent river access.
Here are three of my favorite Texas paddling day trips. If you plan to stay overnight at any of these state parks, be sure to make reservations through the TPWD Central Reservations System, (512) 389-8900 or <www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/admin/res/>.
The Big Cypress Bayou:
Jefferson to Caddo Lake State Park:
Paddling this stretch of Big Cypress Bayou is like being eased back to the days when settlers departed Jefferson on steamboats bound for Louisiana. Ancient cypress trees and other hardwoods line the banks, making this one of the most beautiful bayous in Texas. Put your canoe in at FM 134 in Jefferson and head downstream for 25 miles of seclusion and natural beauty. The stream is navigable year-round, although fallen trees sometimes form obstructions. This is a long paddle for one day, so start early, take lots of water and keep a steady pace. Take out at Caddo Lake State Park and enjoy one of the park system’s best facilities.
The San Marcos River:
Luling City Park to Palmetto State Park:
This 14-mile stretch of the San Marcos River is a fun day paddle. Before you start, grab some barbecue in Luling and then head to the launch area at the Luling City Park. The river runs smoothly along this course, with no rapids and a steady current. As you head downstream, keep a sharp eye out for a dam around which you will have to portage. Palmetto State Park is one of Texas’ best birding spots, so plan to stay overnight and be sure to take your binoculars.
The Guadalupe River:
FM 3351 (Kendall County) crossing to Guadalupe River State Park:
When I close my eyes and think of sunny days on a stream, I come back to this 7.5-mile stretch of the Guadalupe River. Sometimes I paddle it twice in one day, just to fish and float. The cool, clear water runs over limestone bottoms, with sunfish and bass waiting to be taken on a fly rod. Like many Texas Hill Country streams, the Guadalupe has rapids, so sharpen your paddling skills and wear a life jacket. Guadalupe River State Park is ruggedly beautiful, with excellent wildlife-viewing opportunities. Its camping area offers a welcome respite for creaking knees and aching shoulders.
The Guadalupe River always takes me back to my early days with the Julia Belle. And although I can’t swear by it, I am pretty sure I saw her float by once with some other young fellow at the stern.