My fifth paddle camping trip down the Devils River earlier this year included a lot more dragging, pushing and pulling than all the others combined.
Low river flow and an extended drought meant my friends and I lugged our bright red canoes through sections of the river usually gushing with water. Despite the skimpy conditions, we found plenty of bliss along that unspooling ribbon of green. We stopped frequently to belly-flop off boulders into spring-fed pools of water and camped on islands populated by raccoons.
I love paddle camping. For me, it offers distinct advantages over other types of camping. Most significantly, you don't have to count every ounce when you're packing. This time out, we loaded tents, camp chairs, fishing rods, two sets of dominoes, more than 20 pounds of camera gear and way too many groceries into our boats.
On backpacking trips, I eat dehydrated meals, boil water using a stove the size of a TV remote and sit on butt-numbing rocks. But when I've got a canoe to float my supplies from start to finish, I can splurge a little.
My friends and I often fill a cooler with ribeye steaks and russet potatoes, cook on a camp stove the size of a small briefcase and settle our rears onto actual (albeit modestly proportioned) camp chairs — all things we'd never lug along on a foot-powered adventure.
Another big bonus? On paddle trips I'm an otter-roll away from the water at any given moment.
That said, paddle camping requires preparation that backpacking and car camping do not.
First, you'll need to figure out a shuttle. Either bribe a friend to drop you at the starting point and leave your car at the takeout, or hire a guide or company to do the work for you.
Respect private property rights. On Texas rivers, it's legal to camp on islands in the middle of a navigable river (make sure there's water flowing on both sides). In some places, like the Devils River and Angelina River, you can get permits to stay at designated camps along the way.
Let someone know exactly when you expect to be off the water, and in remote areas carry a satellite phone or GPS tracker.
Tread lightly and keep Texas rivers clean. Make sure your belongings are tethered to your boat so you can recover them if you capsize. Never bring glass. Carry a trash bag and use it. Pick up trash left by others, too.
Finally, don't rush it. Even if you could cover 30 miles in one day, take five if you can afford it. Soak up the scenery. Swim in every shimmering pool. Look for porcupines in the trees and bugs on the ground.
And while you're making your way down that blue-green roadway, remember to thank the river for lightening your load.
Gear Up
Once you've settled location and logistics, it's time to gather up your gear.
- You'll need all the gear you'd take on a regular camping trip, such as tent, sleeping bag and pad, portable stove, clothing and a first aid kit.
- Bring a personal flotation device — and wear it if you can't swim or if paddling through rapids.
- Carry an extra paddle. You never know when you'll need a backup.
- You may have to get out of your boat on occasion, so you'll need line for portaging or dragging your boat and shoes designed to get wet.
- Bring a jug of water or a filter so you can drink water you draw along the way.
- Since there's always a chance you'll flip your boat along the way, you'll need an assortment of roll-top dry bags, which are designed to keep their contents dry if they get submerged. They come in a variety of sizes and weights, from as small as a sandwich bag to big enough to hold the average beagle (but please don't do that). I like to divvy my belongings into a few medium-sized bags.
Where to Paddle Camp in Texas
Devils River
For the quintessential Texas paddle camping experience, go to the Devils River in West Texas. Camp on islands or get a permit to camp at any of three Texas Parks and Wildlife Department sites between Bakers Crossing and Blue Sage.
Colorado River
Several gravel islands between Webberville and Bastrop make good — and legal — campsites. Bastrop River Co. offers guided overnight trips.
Village Creek
This 21-mile paddling trail in East Texas starts near Kountze and ends near Lumberton and contains multiple access points. Overnight camping permits are available at Big Thicket National Preserve.
