Park Spotlight

Mountains in the City

Franklin Mountains State Park offers scenic summits and miles of trails in El Paso.

By Lydia Pagel
Photos by Chase Fountain

October 2024 Issue

Overview

Driving into Franklin Mountains State Park can be a surprise for many first-time visitors. From El Paso's busy streets, lined with shopping malls, grocery stores, residential neighborhoods and bustling business centers, you jump on the highway to the park and watch the hustle and bustle of the city drop away within minutes. The desert mountains rise up in front of you. The noise dies down to a low background hum. When you turn into the park, you might notice desert wildflowers growing on the shoulder of the road, or spot a cottontail rabbit dashing off.

It is a protected sanctuary nestled in the center of an international metropolitan area boasting more than 2.5 million people. In the ´70s, prospects were dim for the Franklin Mountains as developers looked for opportunities to build resorts and condos, but when community members got wind of the plans, they said “no”! In 1979 the Texas Legislature approved the creation of Franklin Mountains State Park to protect this amazing place. Now, more than 40 years later, Franklin Mountains is one of the largest urban wilderness parks in the world, protecting more than 26,000 acres of the Chihuahuan Desert while sharing three sides with the city of El Paso.

Franklin Mountains State Park isn't just another state park. It is a sanctuary for the urbanite looking to escape the speed of city life for a day. It is a weekend resort to heal from the stress of the daily grind. It is a playground to explore new sights and sounds. It is a challenge for those looking to push their body and mind. Whatever you are looking for, Franklin Mountains is your urban wilderness escape.

At a Glance

Size: 26,627 acres

Closest Town: El Paso

Year Opened: 1987

Busy Season: Spring, Summer and Fall

Fun Fact: North Franklin Peak, the tallest point in El Paso, is eight feet shorter than it used to be. A developer flattened the top in the ´70s to build a resort on the mountain before activists succeeded in getting the mountain protected by the state.

Three Hikes

Easy: Nature Walk (0.75 miles)

This short trail meanders through arroyos and hills to give a great introduction to desert plants and animals for kids, beginner hikers and wildlife enthusiasts alike. The bird blind at the beginning of the trail offers opportunities to spot some wildlife, and markers along the trail give more information about the plants that grow here. Keep an eye out for the track molds along the way to get an idea of what animals might pass through.

Moderate: Aztec Cave Trail (1.9 miles)

This is one of the most popular trails in the park. Enjoy the views along the route and don't forget to stop for photos. The destination cave, formed by ancient lava flows, offers the perfect rest spot in hot weather. Additionally, you can visit a smaller cave if you are up for a rock scramble around the north side of the cave entrance.

Challenging: North Franklin Peak Trail (8 miles)

One of the more difficult hikes in the park, North Franklin Peak offers a challenge for even avid hikers, but the payoff at the top is worth it. The trail begins with a gradual incline over scree, or rubble, then transitions to a steady climb over a mostly gravel trail. The ridgeline leads to the highest peak in the park, North Franklin Peak. The views are unbelievable, with a 360-degree perspective of the region and vistas of Mexico, El Paso and New Mexico.

Bonus: Ron Coleman Trail

Considered by some to be the most difficult trail in Franklin Mountains State Park, this 3.8-mile trail runs from McKelligon Canyon to Smuggler's Pass off Transmountain Road. This classic trail was closed for several years for trail reconstruction and reopened in late 2023. If you're hiking with others, park staff recommends meeting your hiking buddies at Smuggler's Pass parking area (also known as Mammoth Trunk) and carpooling to the McKelligon Canyon entrance. If you forget to get your permit online (texasstateparks.reserveamerica.com), there are self-pay stations at both entrances.

Starting from McKelligon Canyon, the hike begins with a moderately steep incline over loose gravel and rocks leading to two natural rock shelters. After reaching the first cave, the trail hooks around on the right side and requires scrambling on all fours over bare rock to make it up to the second cave near the ridgeline. The ridgeline provides a respite as you wander along the gentle rise that continues until you reach three sections of chain-assisted rock ascents ranging from 15-40 feet. Be sure to stop in the middle of the second ascent to enjoy the view. Shortly afterward you will pass South Franklin Peak and make your way to Mammoth Rock, one of the most iconic rock formations in the park. Washouts in this section make footing precarious, so take your time. The old descent from Mammoth Rock is now closed for restoration efforts; the new trail stays further to the left and offers great views as you zigzag down the slope. Once you reach the bottom, it is a short stroll to the Smuggler's Pass parking area.

Plan your state park visit

Mix and match these activities to make the most of your trip, whether you' re there for a full weekend or only a day.

Go mountain biking

Franklin Mountains State Park offers access to world-class mountain biking trails in most units of the park. Many mountain bikers enjoy the Tin Mine and Hit Canyon units in the northeast.

Attend a ranger program

The park regularly offers mine tours, Peak Challenge hikes, nature walks, night hikes and beginner hikes. Check the park website for more information about guided hikes and programs.

Visit the Tin Mine Unit

This unit on the eastern side of the Franklins can be accessed through Chuck Heinrich Memorial City Park as well as the Lazy Cow Trailhead and Roundhouse Trailhead. This side of the mountain has more gradual elevation changes until you get into the foothills of the mountains. Favorite hikes include Cardiac Hill, the Maze and the Old Tin Mine Road, with access to two old mine shafts and the ruins of a smelter.

Discover the geology

Franklin Mountains contains some of the oldest exposed rock in Texas. To spot it, look for the red granite. Fossils are often visible in the younger limestone (remember to leave what you find in the park).

Franklin Mountains visitor center and gift shop — Photo by Earl Nottingham

Stop by the visitor center and gift shop

The visitor center and gift shop at the entrance to the Tom Mays Unit of the park is a place to enjoy exhibits, pick up maps and information, and find the perfect souvenir to take home.

Camp

The Tom Mays Unit offers tent camping (14 sites) and RV camping (five sites). Make sure to reserve ahead of time online. Call the park for information about the group campsites. No water available.

Visit the bird blind

The bird blind is located at the beginning of the Nature Walk trail, just past the maintenance yard. This is a great spot to get out of the sun, see some wildlife and enjoy the sights and sounds of the park.

Wildlife

Cottontail Rabbit

In the early morning or evening, these cute critters can often be seen darting across roads and trails looking for food, water and shelter. During the day you may be able to spot the holes that serve as entrances to their underground dens.

Rattlesnake

People are often concerned about encountering snakes in the park, but the truth is the rattlesnakes don't want anything to do with you. Be aware of your surroundings and don't put your hands where you can't see them, and you won't have any trouble with snakes. The most common ones to see are black-tailed, diamondback and banded rock rattlesnakes.

Quail

One of the iconic birds of the park is the Gambel's quail. Quail can be seen running along the ground in large groups in the evenings and mornings and are easily scared off. They sport a comma-shaped, forward-facing crest atop their small heads, more prominent in males.

Bighorn Sheep

Visitors to Franklin Mountains can be on the lookout for some new wildlife come this fall, when TPWD is bringing a herd of bighorn sheep to the park. Read More in Trail Mix.

Park Staff Story

“When I was approached in 2015 about hosting a 50K (31-mile) race in the park, I thought the organizers were crazy. To my surprise, it was a huge success and the range of participant emotions from crying to laughing made me want to understand why runners chose this challenge. I completed the 50K race in 2016 in about 11.5 hours, but the story doesn't end there. A few months later, a friend of mine from Mexico reached out to me about the newest ultramarathon the park was to host, this time a 100-mile and 100K distance (62 miles). He was signed up for the 100K but sustained an ankle injury a few weeks before and wanted my help to sell his registration. When I couldn't find anyone to fill in for him, he said, ‘You do it!’ I said, ‘No way! 100K?’ But in the end, he convinced me to join less than a week before the race with little training. Almost 31 hours after the race started, I crossed the finish line and told my daughter, ‘You can accomplish anything if you work hard and set your mind to it.’”
—Superintendent Cesar Mendez

Selfie Spots

Scenic Overlook

If you drive down to the end of the Tom Mays Access Road you will find a large group camping area overlooking the valley to the west. The short walk to the picnic tables gives you a great view.

Mundy's Gap

This saddle in the mountain is a great climb for the hiker looking for a moderate hike to a lookout point, or a great selfie spot for avid hikers on their way to North Franklin. Benches on either side of the gap offer a scenic rest stop, and the views east and west are the real gem.

TXDOT Pulloffs

The highway leading to the Tom Mays Unit of the park, Transmountain Road, offers several spots to pull over and enjoy a picnic with a view. These are scenic spots to get a great photo if you aren't up for a hike to a lookout point.

Pro Packing List

Aside from the necessities, these items can make your trip to Franklin Mountains State Park even more enjoyable.

Bison Cooler

50 Qt Hard Cooler - White

You don't want a fragile toolbox, a wimpy pickup truck, or delicate hiking boots, so why would you settle for a cooler that doesn't hold up? A great mid-sized cooler, the Bison 50 qt. Cooler holds 42 cans or 65 pounds of ice. Bison Coolers are made in the USA and certified bear proof.
MSRP: $349
bisoncoolers.com