Take A Trip Into Cave Country at Kickapoo Cavern State Park

I continue driving down the narrow road, gazing at the 6,300 acres of limestone hills and valleys that surround me. Almost 60 miles north of the border town of Del Rio, I feel as if I’m in the middle of nowhere. Three ecological regions meet here at Kickapoo — the Edwards Plateau, South Texas Brush Country and Trans-Pecos. The convergence allows for an interesting variety of wildlife to thrive in the park, including the black-capped vireo, white-tailed deer, Mexican free-tailed bat, ringtail and the endangered golden-cheeked warbler. The park is a display of Texas’ varying landscapes with its mixture of desert and hills. It’s beautiful.

After arriving at the park’s head-quarters, I’m greeted by Park Superintendent Stephen Thomas. We are about to tour 4-million-year-old Kickapoo Cavern, the largest of the 20 known caves in the park, and the only one that visitors can venture into. After grabbing our helmets and flashlights, we are off.

A short hike up a steep incline reveals the gated entrance of the cavern. I’m buzzing with excitement. This will be my first time in a cavern, which Thomas assures me is fine. Kickapoo is accessible for even a newbie caver — it lacks paved paths but doesn’t require crawling either.

After stepping down into the cavern, we are immediately engulfed by darkness and surrounded by cool air, a stark contrast to the heat of summer we were just sweating in. Daddy longlegs crawl around the cavern, and tiny scorpions run away from our strobes of light. For the next three hours, my flashlight becomes my best friend. Without it, I wouldn’t be able to navigate around the collapsed limestone that makes up the floor of the cavern or observe the icicle-like formations towering above us.

Thomas explains that the cavern was formed when slow-moving, acidic groundwater eroded passageways through the 105-million-year-old limestone.

“Other cavern tours are made up of trails with ropes blocking the formations — more of a ‘look but don’t touch’ experience,” Thomas says. “Kickapoo is an undeveloped cavern, allowing visitors to actually feel the limestone and different calcite formations, which makes the tour more immersive and adventurous.”

I emerge from the cavern with a new perspective on time and history. Throughout the tour, Thomas pointed out names that had been carved into the rock — some chicken scratch, print and cursive. One inscription dated back to 1887. Though years have passed, not much has changed inside the cavern, making me feel as if I’d stepped into a portal transporting me back in time.

Though the park is in remote Texas Hill Country, the cavern alone makes it worth a visit. Adventurous spirits will appreciate Kickapoo Cavern State Park.

This trail pays homage to the Seargeant family, who sold the land to the state. Visitors can read about the ranching history of the park on a plaque at the trailhead, as well as see old sheep pens and a historic windmill. A 135-foot incline leads to a scenic overlook of the campground.

Just north of the campground, this hike is a loop around the outskirts of the park. While mostly flat, this trail is slightly challenging due to its length. The hike is worth it, as you are surrounded by the beauty of the Hill Country with the chance to see various wildlife such as white-tailed deer, porcupines and rabbits.

This steep trail may not be for everyone, but it is perfect for those looking for a remote journey and high vantage point of the park. The trail starts off on a dirt road that was previously used for ranchers to drive farm equipment and turns into a rocky path up the side of a hill, where hikers face dramatic elevation change.

Five full hookup campsites are available onsite. These sites offer utility hookups for RVs, but a tent will do just fine. Ten campsites with water are also available for tents and small campers only. Restrooms with showers are located right next to the campgrounds. No light pollution and a Bortle Class 2 sky allow campers to sleep under the stars. Kickapoo is open Friday through Monday, so be sure to be packed up before gates close at 4:30 Monday afternoon.

Located right off of the Vireo Vista Trail, a short 0.3-mile hike ascends 137 feet and leads to a scenic view of the southwestern area of the park. With a bench to rest on, Armadillo Lookout is best for wide and all-encompassing photos.

The largest cave in the park, and the only one accessible to visitors, Kickapoo Cavern offers multiple photo opportunities. At the back of the cavern, dramatic calcite formations create a backdrop like no other. Make sure to use flash, as there is no natural light within the cavern.

Stephen Thomas has been the park superintendent at Kickapoo for a little over a year. One of his favorite pastimes at the park is watching the bats emerge from Stuart Bat Cave.

“One of the most memorable moments since becoming superintendent here at Kickapoo was a combination of two of my favorite things — bats and lightning. One day, a storm was passing north of us. We didn’t get any rain, and all we could see was a cloud of bats leaving the cave with horizontal lightning bolts illuminating them. It was so peaceful to see. It was supernatural.”

Guided cavern tours are offered at 1 p.m. every Saturday throughout the year. Since the cavern is undeveloped without a trail, children must be at least 5 years old. It is an extra $10 fee to go on a cavern tour (worth every penny). Visitors must reserve their spot online. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and clothes you don’t mind getting a little dirty, and bring a flashlight!

Around 240 migrant and resident bird species have been recorded at Kickapoo. Stop by HQ to borrow a pair of binoculars and check out the park’s bird blind to see hard-to-find species such as the gray vireo, varied bunting, Montezuma quail, black-capped vireo and golden-cheeked warbler.

Located toward the main entrance, Stuart Bat Cave is the second largest cave within the park. Entrance to the cave is not permitted because the cave is home to up to a million Mexican free-tailed bats. At dusk, between the months of March and October, the bats take flight, putting on a grand display of Hill Country wildlife. Peak bat flight viewing times are spring and early fall.