Desert Outpost
Blaze your own trail at Black Gap Wildlife Management Area.
By Eva Frederick
Photos by Sonja Sommerfeld

In our new column, Backcountry, we are featuring Texas' other public lands: wildlife management areas, or WMAs. There are more than 50 of them scattered throughout the state, and many offer recreational opportunities such as camping, hiking, fishing and hunting.
Driving into Black Gap Wildlife Management Area is an experience in itself. Depending on where you're coming from, you'll pass through Marathon or Terlingua, the last outposts before the solitude of the mountains. The West Texas desert stretches out before you, and you'll drive at least an hour through a landscape of peaks and tablelands.

Finally, you pass through the WMA's gate and down a short road before, suddenly, there it is - the namesake Black Gap. As if thrown open like a pair of curtains, two dark mesas frame the road, creating a gap. After miles of yellows, browns and reds, the stark black of the rock is striking, and lends the road ahead a mysterious glimmer. Adventure lies beyond.
Black Gap WMA encompasses around 103,000 acres northeast of Big Bend National Park. It is one of three WMAs in West Texas (the other two being Elephant Mountain and Sierra Diablo). “I think there's several things that set Black Gap apart,” says Travis Smith, a biologist at the WMA. “One is the river. We're the only WMA out here along the Rio Grande. And we're the biggest in the state. We have a lot of diverse habitats.”
Several research projects are ongoing at the WMA. Black Gap hosts bears that are tagged and studied by the Borderlands Research Institute's black bear project (read more on page 32), and the WMA is also home to one of the state's protected herds of bighorn sheep.
When asked, Smith is not forthcoming about his favorite part of the WMA; instead, he encourages visitors to forge their own trails. “There's certain areas that I love for certain reasons, you know,” he says. “I would say the whole area is worth exploring.”
What to Do
Camp in the mountains…
Twenty-six primitive campsites are nestled in the mountains along the road through the WMA. Visitors must bring their own water and pack out all trash.

… and alongside the Rio Grande
Twenty-five more primitive campsites with concrete platforms and roofs overlook the river.
Drive the road to the river
A bumpy unpaved road winds through the WMA's interior, passing beautiful mountain vistas and ending up alongside the Rio Grande.
Hike
Black Gap's varied terrain makes for interesting hiking. “There's no designated trails, really,” says Smith. “You just blaze your own.”
Take your horse
Black Gap is one of 16 WMAs in the state that allow horseback riding. The equestrian trail is open March 1-August 31, and winds through Maravillas Canyon and along the Rio Grande. No water facilities are available along the trail, so riders should either bring water for their animals or plan on watering them at the river.
Mountain bike
Black Gap offers approximately 200 miles of primitive roads and a stretch of highway for bicyclists. The WMA encourages riding through Maravillas Canyon and along the river, through Brushy Canyon or along Farm Road 2627.
Hunt
Quail and dove and small game like desert rabbits are some of the most popular species to hunt in season. The WMA also offers drawn hunts for mule
deer and javelina.
Fish
Several species of catfish lurk in the murky water of the Rio Grande. Drive out for a fishing day trip, or stay at a riverside campground for a more complete experience. You need a fishing license to fish at WMAs.
See wildlife
Black Gap is home to quail, mule deer, ringtails, rabbits, black bears, bighorn sheep and more. “I really got into birding when I moved out here,” says Smith. “You get diverse birds throughout the year because this is a migration flyway.”
Pay your respects at the memorial
Three TPWD biologists were killed in a helicopter crash while conducting aerial surveys for desert bighorn sheep in West Texas in 2020. Today, a memorial to the men stands just outside the main complex at Black Gap.
How to Reserve
To visit a WMA, you need either a Limited Public Use Permit ($12) or a General Public Hunting Permit ($48). You can purchase either online on the TPWD website, in person at TPWD offices and retail hunting and fishing license dealers, or by phone at 800-TX-LIC-4U.
Unlike state parks campsites, which must be booked online, WMAs do not require advance reservations. If you're planning a trip to Black Gap, call ahead at (432) 376-2216 to make sure the WMA is available on your desired dates (you may need to leave a message and they will get back to you). Black Gap is open year-round, but some days are reserved for special permit hunts, so make sure you call ahead before any visit. When you get there, campsites are first-come, first-served. Check in at the registration station.